Odessa is a major port on the Ukrainian border of the Black Sea. In the eighteenth century the region on the Black Sea that now contains Odessa was under Turkish rule. When the Russians took over in 1792, they moved quickly to establish Odessa as a port. Compared to most cities in the Ukraine and Russia, Odessa has an overwhelmingly European feel to it. The Duc de Richelieu is credited with the early design and building of this city, having fled, from the French Revolution, where he had been a prominent member of the Royal Government. He was offered a position in the Russian army, and was invited, by Czar Alexander I, to become governor of the province of Odessa.
Early Odessa was the home for many exiles, and gained special economic importance and privileges as a port, being one of the main entry points for Southern European and Middle Eastern trade to the Russian Empire, and so became a rich and very elegant city. French was spoken alongside Russian. The late 19th century and most of the 20th century, however, were not so kind to Odessa, with the Crimean war, several workers' uprisings, persecution of minorities, the famous Potemkin massacre, and numerous atrocities and changes of government during the second world war. However the climate is excellent and the Black Sea resorts were developed as places for relaxation in the 1950s. Much of the architecture and appearance of this city has been frozen in time, providing an excellent snapshot of what an affluent city would have looked like one hundred and fifty years ago. Eventually, with the break up of the Soviet Union, Ukraine became independent of Russia. However Odessa's architectural, cultural and economic zenith was in the 19th century.
Tips for the Visitor to Odessa
There are several ways of getting to Odessa. It has an international, but rather aging, airport, which is served by several airlines. Alternatively for the leisured traveller it can be reached by ship via the Black Sea, for example by sailing from Istanbul. Be sure, however, to obtain a visa in advance, for travellers from most countries. When in Odessa, buses are plentiful and cheap. Payment for services can be in the local currency, the Hryvnia, or dollars which are widely accepted and sometimes preferred. As part of a modernisation drive, there are several western standard hotels being built for example near the port. There are also a number of 19th century hotels in the central area.
However for those on a budget there are many sanitoria. These were built in the Soviet era, partly to reward workers that had performed well. Most are now quite run down, but provide basic facilities although not luxurious. However many come with extensive grounds often including swimming pools, tennis courts, riding etc. and are ideal for a family holiday, especially in the summer where the climate and proximity to the sea make the conditions very pleasant. The Ukrainian language is officially spoken here, and it is worth understanding the script which is similar but not identical to Russian so as to transliterate letters in signs, although in the major sites English will be understood.
Highlights of Odessa
A large part of central Odessa has remained largely unchanged for well over a century, and the streets have a relaxing and leisured feel to them. There are many magnificent buildings. The Odessa steps were made famous in Eisenstein's film battleship Potemkin and are so designed that if one looks at them in a particular angle they look flat. The statue of the Duc de Richelieu is a prominent landmark among the wide and leafy streets. The opera house built in 1880 is well worth seeing. There are several excellent museums including a quite unique and large literary museum, documenting books, papers, and pamphlets over a period of nearly two hundred years. With the original French influence (the first papers were published equally in French and Russian) and some high profile residents including then poet Pushkin, the literary heritage is substantial and the museum attendants will delight in their enthusiasm.
This wonderful city offers much to the visitor, a fantastic and largely unspoilt historic heritage, excellent climate, a beautiful port, sea and outdoor activities, and is well worth seeing.
Richard Brereton - Richard has a PhD, MA and BA from Cambridge, is a chartered chemist, Fellow of the Royal Societies of Chemistry, Medicine and Statistics ...
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